Vibrant Threads - Paithani

In the western Indian state of Maharashtra, a traditional Paithani saree is regarded as a family heirloom, passed down to the daughter or the daughter-in-law. Some families have 100-year old Paithanis, lovingly preserved over the generations. It was called 'maha-vastra' (grand attire), part of trousseaus and worn on special occasions like religious ceremonies and weddings. 

The Paithani saree is named after the place it originated from – Paithan, situated about 40 kilometres from Aurangabad. However, these days, they are woven predominantly in a place called Yeola, near Nasik.

A combination of criss-crossing border design along with colourful motifs on the 'padhar' (end-piece) make a typical Paithani. While the border threadwork in traditional Paithani was woven in gold thread (zari), subsequently, silver thread with a gold finish began to be used. The end-piece of traditional Paithani sarees are woven with gold thread in its warp thereby making a shimmery base for the colourful motifs to be worked into the weft.

The motifs are borrowed from nature. There are 'munia' (parrots), 'bangdi mor' (peacock inside a ring), 'asavali' (creepers), 'kamal' (lotus) and 'narali' (coconut). These are worked in gold thread when placed in the body of the saree and in colour when on the end-piece.

The richness of a Paithani also comes from 'buttis' (small gold motifs) that dot the vibrant colours in the body of the saree. The silk saree body is usually in colours like magenta, peacock blue, turmeric yellow and crimson. Dual-shaded sarees, called 'dhup-chaav' (light and shadow) are also made with different colours in the warp and weft, for example, red and green.

However, authentic Paithani is not for the common man with prices ranging from a few thousand rupees to even half a million rupees!

It is one of the saree types that comprises a traditional categorisation called 'shalu' or sarees in muslin with gold threadwork, made exclusively for the royalty and aristocracy.  

One reason for the exclusivity (and the price) of a Paithani could be the use of gold thread. The other reason being the workmanship involved in weaving the coloured motifs on to the base of the end-piece. Even today, it takes a month to handweave one simple Paithani and several months, for more intricate work.

Paithanis are usually woven in pure silk but there are some synthetic blends in non-traditional colours using gold-copper threadwork also available. However, they all carry the signature Paithani motifs and border design.

(an edited version appeared in the June 2009 Issue of At A Glance. Pics by author)

Narsapur Crochet

People in Hyderabad are known to have returned from trips to Delhi laden with inexpensive crochet bought from the wholesale markets in Karol Bagh. Little do they realise that these intricately woven tablecloths and doilies are produced in their own backyard!

Narsapur is a town in the West Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, approximately 60 kms from Hyderabad. Along with neighbouring villages like Palakol, it is home to a rather unlikely industry – crochet.

The word 'crochet' derives its name from the type of hooked needle called 'croc' or 'croche' (Middle French) that is used to hand-weave yarn.

Crochet grew in popularity in Europe of the 1800s as a less expensive substitute to lace. Although in that era, it was already known as a craft in India, it evolved as a cottage industry primarily due to the efforts of Christian missionaries in India to help destitute women and orphans earn a livelihood. Ultimately, centres like Narsapur began to cater to Buying Offices across the world as the women of the region took to making crochet to supplement the household income. Today, over 100,000 women of the region are part of the industry that was begun over a 100 years ago.

The production process is similar to that of most cottage industries. Ketan Shah of Jain Enterprises, an exporter of Narsapur crochet lace products, says, “When an export order is received, we purchase cotton yarn and give it to master craftsmen along with the specifications and design. A small craftsman take only about 100 kgs and distributes it among 60-100 women of the region, also specifying a time-frame, say 15 to 20 days, for completion of the order. He visits them periodically to ensure quality. At the end of the time-frame, the master craftsman comes to us, negotiates the wages and delivers the products. Then, we use our in-house facilities for finishing and packing.The finished products are exported mainly to Europe, the US and Latin America. ”

However, hand-made crochet as an export industry is seeing a down-trend. Although the exports from India continue, they are affected by a slump in demand owing to a price advantage that China offers. A full-sized bedcover can hardly be sold today for say, $15. Also, machine-made crochet has an advantage over hand-made in drastically altering the time-lines, quality and volumes.

For a white or gray crochet product, there is immense competition between exporters in India as well as from China. To beat competition, export houses like Jain Enterprises have innovated crochet with vibrant colour-fast yarn in shades like yellow, blue and maroon.

At the regional level, the income from crochet is not substantial for the women. They rarely earn more than Rs.2000 a month by crocheting. Various sources indicate that the presence of the middle-man is said to be part of the problem.

Also, this source of income is not the only means of sustenance as an increasing number of the youth earn well in the cities contributing a relatively much largely sum to the household. So, for some women in the region, crochet is a hobby, usually done while watching television.

Home accessories from Narsapur's famed hand-made crochet industry range from doilies, pillow covers, cushion covers, table-runners, bed spreads and table cloths. To some degree, crochet finds its way into fashion in garments- like skirts, blouses, children's apparel – and in trims.

(An edited version was published in the May 2009 issue of 'At A Glance'. Pictures by author.)

Strands of Peace - Ahimsa Silk

Finding out about Ahimsa Silk a little like spooling a cocoon – the information unravels gradually and what you find at the end of it is a hand full of strands and thin air.

But yes, those silken strands of information are worthy of interest.

Ahimsa (literally meaning non-violence) is a concept with its origins in Hindu, Buddhist and Jain philosophy. The word has also become generic to silk that is produced without killing the silkworm for its cocoon.

Most regular commercially produced silk is a by-product of the life-cycle of the silkworm, Bombyx Mori. The worm builds itself a cocoon for the larva and pupa stage. In sericulture, the cocoon is usually plunged in hot water to kill the developing pupa as well as to degum the strands.

In non-violent silk rearing, the silkworm is allowed to metamorphose into a moth that emerges from the cocoon and flies away, thereby living out its natural life-cycle by going on to mate and create a new set of eggs. The pierced cocoon left behind is carefully degummed and unravelled for spinning into ahimsa silk yarn.

Many theories abound as to the origin of what is called Ahimsa silk, also called non-violent silk or peace silk. Some say that it is product of the Swadeshi movement of self-sustenance. As is Khadi, propogated by Mahatma Gandhi. Khadi is simply, hand-spun and hand-woven fabric, either cotton, silk or wool. Khadi became a brand and went on to create innovative non-violent products like leather from carcasses of animals that have died natural deaths. Mahatma Gandhi is known to have been critical of sericulture. Perhaps it is from these associations with Khadi and Mahatma Gandhi's focus on ahimsa or non-violence that the origin of the phrase, 'Ahimsa' silk came about.

While non-violent silk is exciting as a concept, finding authentic Ahimsa silk is a challenge. Some say that Assam silk or Eri silk is true non-violent silk while others claim that Tussar silk is a non-violent silk variety. Kusuma.Rajaiah, a Technical Officer at APCO (Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Cooperative Society), Hyderabad, claims to have invented the technique of getting silk yarn from cocoons without killing the silk worms, for the first time in the world in the year 1991. He is also widely credited with creating a viable commercial product of non-violent silk. There are accusations among animal protectionist groups that certain types of hand-spun ahimsa silk are actually cotton in the weft and commercially produced silk yarn for the warp.

In terms of appearance, Ahimsa silk differs in texture from commercially produced silk. While regular silk has a rich, smooth sheen, Ahimsa silk is softer to the touch, sometimes has thicker yarn and has a lustre rather than a shine.

Price-wise, Ahimsa silk costs almost double the price of regular silk. One reason for this could be the cost of production and the wastage. The spinning of non-violent silk yarn is an intricate process as the moth pierces the cocoon to emerge. Kusuma.Rajaiah says, “There is heavy wastage in the process and it is not possible to bring the costs down further. As having a separate factory is expensive investment, I outsource the spinning to a spinning mill to get the required yarn.”

Ahimsa Silk is used mainly for apparel although furnishing is a strong line for exports. It has a strong following among certain orthodox communities and environment-aware individuals. It provides a viable alternative for those who would still like to wear a semblance of silk without the killing. Provided, of course, that one finds the real deal.

(An edited version was published in the April 2009 issue of 'At A Glance'. Pictures by author.)