If
a palace converted to a luxury hotel is not really your cup of tea,
here's a glimpse into some royal residences, famous and lesser known,
where you can let your imagination run riot. Some palaces have been
converted to museums and some continue to be used partially as the
residences of royal descendants. In some palaces, come dusk, the
Son-et-Lumeire brings alive halls and pavilions echoing with legends
of romance, valour and sacrifice.
14th
CENTURY
RANI
PADMINI PALACE, CHITTAURGARH, RAJASTHAN
Indian
history is replete with legends of queens who showed great valour
when faced with the threat of invading enemy forces. One such story
is that of Rani Padmini, also called Padmavati, the second wife of
the Rajput king, Rawal Ratan Singh. In 1303, when Allahuddin Khilji
caught a glimpse of the Rani, he wanted to take her by force and
attacked the kingdom. Seeing no other honourable means to escape,
the Queen and the women of kingdom performed a mass immolation,
traditionally called Jauhar so that their men could unflinchingly
martyr themselves in battle. The Rana Kumbha palace is said to be the
site of the Jauhar. A reconstructed water palace of the Rani stands
today as testimony to the aesthetics of those times.
PADMANABHAPURAM
PALACE, THUCKALAY, TAMIL NADU/KERALA
Although
it is located in Tamil Nadu, the palace is officially part of the
Government of Kerala and about 60 km from Thiruvananthapuram. Named
after the presiding deity of the royal family, the palace is presumed
to have been originally constructed in the 14th
century and many of the rooms of
the now-standing structure were added on subsequently. This palace
was the seat of the Travancore kings until the capital was shifted in
1795 to Thiruvananthapuram in today's Kerala. As Indian palaces go,
this one is modest, sans the pomp and grandeur one would attribute to
Indian palaces. It does have its share of intricate carvings on some
pillars, wall murals and an array of artifacts on display. But the
palace is noted more as a glorious example of Kerala's architectural
heritage and the innate simplicity of traditional Keralan lifestyle.
Do ask about about the black flooring you see there.
15th
CENTURY
GWALIOR
FORT PALACE COMPLEX, GWALIOR, MADHYA PRADESH
While
the Gwalior fort has also seen its share of Jauhar and presumed to be
the site where the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb ordered the execution of
his brother, Murad, there is also a sweet little romantic story that
resonates in these precincts. King Maan Singh Tomar was a great
patron of music. The king eventually fell in love with a village girl
from the Gujar community called Mriganayani and married her on
fullfilling her condition that she be built a separate palace with
water supply via an aqueduct. Mriganayani's palace in this fort is
called Gujari. Do visit Maan Singh's Man Mandir Palace too. Tansen
began his journey to being a great composer of Hindustani music,
under Maan Singh's patronage and it was here that the musical
tradition of Dhrupad began to flourish. The Son-et-Lumeire
at the fort recounts, amongst other stories, the story of Maan Singh,
Mriganayani and the music that evolved in those times.
16TH
CENTURY
CITY
PALACE COMPLEX, UDAIPUR, RAJASTHAN
If
there is one place that will dominate your visit to Udaipur, it would
be the this one. Originally built by Maharana Udai Singh in 1553, the
complex has lofty archways, ornate balconies and resplendent halls
built in both Mughal and Rajput architectural styles. The museum
houses a fine collection of miniature paintings, royal clothing,
accessories and armour. Do visit the Mor Chowk with its intricate
mosaic work featuring India's national bird, the peacock.
BAAZ
BAHADUR'S PALACE AND RUPMATI'S PAVILION, MANDU, MADHYA PRADESH
While
Mandu has a history that far pre-dates the legend of Rani Rupmati and
Baaz Bahadur, it is this romantic story that has seeped into the folk
songs of the region. Baaz Bahadur's love for music was rivalled only
by his love for Rupmati. When Emperor Akbar's general, Adham Khan
invaded the region in 1561, the defeated Baaz Bahadur fled, but
Rupmati killed herself before being captured. Ahmad-ul-Umri's 'The
Lady of the Lotus – Rupmati, Queen of Mandu' contains a brief
recounting of the legend as well as poems of love and longing
attributed to Rupmati. Rupmati's Pavilion and Baaz Bahadur's Palace
in the complex overlook each other, separated only by the Rewa Kund
reservoir. Also explore the other palaces in the complex, like Jahaz
Mahal and the Hindola Mahal, not linked to the legend.
AGRA
FORT PALACE, AGRA, UTTAR PRADESH
While
the Taj Mahal garners eyeballs at dusk, a more romantic view can be
had from the palace inside the Agra Fort. The fort was built by
emperor Akbar, completed in 1573, but the palaces inside have been
razed and rebuilt depending on who occupied it. Akbar's grandson,
Shah Jahan was imprisoned here by his own son, Aurangzeb. From the
exquisite white marble Musamman Burj, a splendid view of the Taj
Mahal can be had. This balcony is rumoured to have been where Shah
Jahan died, gazing at the Taj Mahal. Do visit the Jahangiri Mahal and
the Khas Mahal too. The structures are an interesting mix of Hindu
and Islamic architecture.
FORT
PALACE COMPLEX, ORCHHA, MADHYA PRADESH
Orchha
is the land of the Bundelas, a community of Rajput warriors renowned
for their great sense of asthetics. It is a region rich with the
architectural heritage of numerous temple towers, pavilions,
cenotaphs and palaces. Admire the intricate trellises and the fine
wall art in the Raj Mahal. The Sunder Mahal is now an Islamic
pilgrimage spot. The Jehangir Mahal is by far the most imposing of
the structures, built in Mughal style to commemmorate the victory of
Mughal emperor, Jehangir over King Vir Singh Deo. The Son-et-Lumeire
shows
at Orccha include the Jehangir Mahal, the Raj Mahal and the Cenotaphs
– do check the timing as it differs by season of the year.
17TH
CENTURY
LEH
PALACE, LADAKH, JAMMU & KASHMIR
If
you feel breathless when you look up at the imposing facade of the
Leh Palace and the Victory Tower flanking it, it may not necessarily
be altitude sickness. It could be awe. The Palace nestled atop a hill
was built by King Semgge Namgyal on similar lines to the Potala
Palace of Lhasa, Tibet. The nine-storeyed palace is in ruins and
currently undergoing restoration, but there are some spectacular
views to be had from the top.
THIRUMALAI
NAYAKAR MAHAL, MADURAI, TAMIL NADU
Built
in 1636 by King Thirumalai Nayak and presumably designed by an
Italian architect, what remains today of this once-magnificent palace
is only a courtyard and a few pavilions. But this is enough to give
an insight into the amalgam of the two styles incorporated here –
Islamic and Dravidian. The most striking feature of the palace - the
13 metre tall pillars, using a unique plaster of shell lime and egg
white for a smooth finish. The pavilions are exquisite in their
stucco work depicting celestial beings and winged beasts. If you stay
for the Son-et-Lumeire
at 6.30 p.m., do take along mosquito repellent.
19TH
CENTURY
MARBLE
PALACE, KOLKATA
A
permit is required in advance from the West Bengal Tourism office, to
see this neo-classical residential building. A walk through the
Marble Palace, built by Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur is a
fascinating way of acquainting oneself with the ways of the opulent
Bengalis of the 1800s. It has a wonderful collection of art,
sculpture, furniture and bric a bracs and the name seems to have come
from the profusion and variety of marble used in its construction.
Since this is also a private residence, some areas may be off-limits.
20TH
CENTURY
MAHARAJAH'S
PALACE, MYSORE, KARNATAKA
The
Mysore palace, after being damaged many times over, was finally
reconstructed based on the design by British architect, Henry Irwin
in the Indo-Saracenic style in 1912. It is the seat of the Wodeyar
dynasty of Mysore. During the spectacular 10-day Dussehra festival in
September/October, the Palace and the city come vibrantly alive. Pick
up an audio-guide and saunter through the various rooms with their
exhibits. Absorb the grandeur of the Courtyard, the Private Audience
Room, the Public Durbar Hall and the Marriage Hall. On weekends and
festival days, the Mysore Palace is illuminated in the evenings. Do
drop in at the Jaganmohana Palace and Art Gallery also in Mysore,
whose structure predates the Maharaja's Palace. It now houses
a wonderful collection of exhibits collected by the Mysore royal
family including art by Raja Ravi Varma and Svetoslav Roerich.
(An edited version of this article appeared in the April 2012 edition of Culturama)
