Cupid Travels

Forget Paris. Skip Agra. Give Goa a miss. And Bali's oh so last season. For the weekend leading up to Valentine's Day, plan a special holiday with that special someone at one of these unforgettable short-haul Indian destinations. Or pick an absolutely stunning international holiday with minimal visa fuss. Any of these destinations beats the 'dinner-and-a-movie' combo, so no excuses!

Mumbai

If clubbing's your thing, head to Mumbai. It's a city that takes its nightlife (and PDA;-) seriously. Pubs in Mumbai are open long after the ones in Chennai and Bangalore have closed for the night. Hard Rock Cafe, Zenzi and Blue Frog are some of the most hip places you can visit as a couple. And Man-U fans have to, have to, have to visit the Manchester United Cafe Bar at Palladium, Phoenix Mills. Expect lots of music, towers of beer and a high-adrenaline atmosphere. 

Mandu, Madhya Pradesh

For a crash-course in old-fashioned romance, simply fly to Indore and head to Mandu. Rani Rupmati and Baz Bahadur's love story is the stuff of legends. There was music, there was poetry and history happened right here in the pavilions and palaces of Mandu. Beg, borrow or steal a translation of Ahmad-ul-Umri's 'The Lady of the Lotus – Rupmati, Queen of Mandu' and read Rupmati's love poems together.

Houseboat in Kerala

We admit - Allepey doesn't sound half as swish as Venice. But what better way to spend a romantic getaway than to cut travel time and max the holiday? Set adrift on a well-appointed houseboat. Simply loll on the deck together. Get an Ayurvedic massage. Succumb to the temptation to do the Titanic-stance at the prow. But please desist from singing the song - you'll be far exceeding the cheesiness quotient!

Haveli in Rajasthan

Recapture the era of the Maharajas and their decadent lifestyle by living out your fantasies as a royal couple. Splurge on a luxurious stay at any of the haveli-turned hotels in Rajasthan and treat the love of your life to some extensive pampering. Take in the grandeur of the forts and palaces. Head to the dunes for a romantic night under the clear desert sky. Just don't let the sand enter the tent!

Coorg, Karnataka

If you've always wanted to visit Tibet, but haven't, and if Dharamshala doesn't fit the scheme of things at the moment, head to Coorg. Stay at one of the many plantations that now host visitors. Take long walks. Stop and smell the flowers. Drink lots of locally brewed fruit wine. Then pop across to Bylakuppe for a day trip and have a quick dekko at Tibetan life. Yes, you read that right – Tibetan! Maybe even find out how to express your love in Tibetan.

Silent Valley

There are rules to visit and rules to stay at Silent Valley. And the constant presence of a guide and fellow travellers could prove a dampener to a city-slicker's idea of a good time out on Valentine's Day. But as a couple, if you share a world view that time amidst nature is time best spent, then head to Silent Valley - the rainforest bordering Tamizh Nadu and Kerala. Imagine staying in the midst of all that natural abundance, waking up to bird song, walking in reverence through lush foliage and if you're lucky, spotting the likes of the Lion-tailed Macaques, Malabar Giant Squirrel and the Great Indian Hornbill! 'Two for Joy' would perhaps be THE most romantic thing to say here.

Singapore

Singapore is a fabulous destination for first time international travellers and seasoned travellers alike. It has all the glam of an international city, yet it proudly flaunts its Asian-ness. Must-dos as a couple include the night Safari (where the atmosphere is positively teeming with nocturnal animals), and feeding times and shows at the Singapore Zoo and the Jurong Bird Park. Oh, and they do have some rocking night clubs. Chinese New Year is being ushered in through February with festive red lanterns, parades, dance, music and food stalls, especially in Chinatown! And - hold your breath - Iron Maiden is also performing here in February!

Sri Lanka

This one's for the value-for-money types. A romantic all-in-one international destination. A short direct flight away. And stunning value-for-money. Stroll through the Sinharaja Forest Reserve, steep yourself in Kandy's culture, sun yourself on the beaches of Bentota or cozy up in a Geoffrey Bawa-designed suite at Lunuganga. Or stay in Colombo at a pretty boutique hotel and make day trips. At this currency conversion rate, it can't get better than this!

Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia

For an exotic international holiday bustling with things to do, head to Kuala Lumpur and onward to Kota Kinabalu. Prepare to be awed by coral reefs and exotic tropical fish as you snorkel or scuba dive in the waters of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. Or walk hand-in-hand on the pristine sands of Tanjung Aru Beach. Explore the trails in the rainforest of Gaya Island. Else, climb the formidable Mount Kinabalu. What's a measly bouquet of insipid roses when you can feast your eyes on over 800 species of orchid spread over the Kinabalu National Park?

The Maldives

It takes a while to reach Male', as a holiday it doesn't come cheap but the views - oh the views - are so worth it! Spectacular azure waters form the perfect backdrop to take your relationship up to the next level. Do take your swim-wear and sun protection along. There's going to be lots of sun, sand and lounging by the pool.

Rishikesh

If you'd rather give this Valentine's Day a platonic flavour with a heady rush, head to Delhi by air and onward to Rishikesh by road. Adventure sport season is on and there are packages for all skill levels. Go river rafting. Trek in Uttarakhand. Rappel down sheer cliffs. Camp on the banks of the Ganges. At the end of the day, sharing an innocent cup of tea in those environs could unlock some not-so-innocent feelings.

An edited version appeared in TAXI's February 2011 Issue

Moondram Pirai

Director: Balu Mahendra

Language : Tamizh

At a brothel in Chennai, Cheenu (Kamal Haasan) finds a young woman called Viji (Sridevi) with regressive amnesia. Moved by her child-like state, he sneaks her out of there and takes her away to pristine Ooty where he is the headmaster at a local school.

 

Cheenu becomes part-parent, part-friend to Viji's six year old self. The caretaking of this child-woman becomes his life's purpose. Also existing in this uncorrupted microcosm are the helpful grandmother next door and a puppy that goes by the unwieldy name of Subramani.

 

Cheenu struggles to keep intact this near-perfect life with Viji, but the world begins to intrude. Juxtaposed to Viji's naiivety is the ripe sensuality of the aged school owner's young wife (Smitha) whose advances Cheenu finally spurns. When a woodcutter attempts to rape Viji, Cheenu becomes alert to her vulnerability and seeks the help of a local medicine man to cure her. When Cheenu is away, Viji's parents arrive at the doorstep of the medicine man looking for their missing daughter, whose real name is Bhagyalakshmi. The cured Viji/Bhagyalakshmi recognises her parents but has no recollection of how she turned up at Ooty.

 

A distraught Cheenu arrives at the railway station just as Viji's train is about to depart. He tries to remind her about their life together, but Viji does not recognize him. The train moves on and Cheenu is left with only memories of a period that sadly, Viji has no recollection of. 

 

Made by Balu Mahendra whose visual rendering of scenes is legendary in Tamizh cinema, Moondram Pirai was also dubbed in Telugu (Vasantha Kokila) and remade in Hindi (Sadma). Kamal Haasan won the Silver Lotus award among the National Awards that year for his performance in the movie. 

An edited version appeared in Culturama's February 2011 Issue

The Silent Raga – Ameen Merchant

 It is the 1980s in Sripuram, Tamizh Nadu. When Janaki, talented in playing the Veena, walks away from her overbearing father and maternal aunt, she leaves behind not only a hard-earned, spotless Brahminical reputation but also her beloved younger sister, Mallika.

Ten years later, Janaki, now Janaki Asgar lives in Mumbai. She receives an unsigned but hardly anonymous letter from her maternal aunt informing her of her father's failing mental faculties and Mallika's financial struggles. Janaki writes to Mallika requesting to meet her in Chennai.

Both letters stir strong emotions for the sisters as each sister braces herself to meet the other. It is through their eyes and alternating narratives, that we piece together the story of their childhood.

We meet the mother, dead but still a silent observer in the form of a garlanded portrait. We meet the bank manager father, Venkatakrishnan, a man who is melodramatic even in his silences. He lives life on his terms, but ensures his daughters are brought up traditionally. Then there are Janaki's friends, Kamala and Revathi, who are as different socially as they are in temparament, but unanimous in their love for music and unconditional affection for Janaki.

We also meet Gayatri, the girls' widowed maternal aunt, who exerts authority over the goings-on in the household. Through Janaki's eyes, we come to realise the motives behind Gayatri's visits. Through Mallika's younger eyes, we see Janaki's gradual assertion of independence. When Janaki leaves Sripuram, we also sense Mallika's fear of having her own wings clipped.

When the sisters finally meet ten years later it is not the misgivings of the past that take centre stage, but the strong bond they share despite a difficult childhood in a dysfunctional family.

Silent Raga captures the social intricacies of Tamizh Brahmin life in an Agraharam (traditional living quarters for the Brahmin community serving the local temple) in small-town Tamizh Nadu. It conveys the conservatism, the thrift, the social mores imposed on young girls of marriageable age as well as the paradoxes that are not spoken about.

The vocabulary is authentic, the detailing is intricate and the protagonists are so well nuanced, that this evocative debut novel reads like a translation from the Tamizh language.

Nominated for the Commonwealth Writers' Prize in 2008 in the best first book category.

(An edited version appeared in Culturama's February 2011 Issue)

Aranmula Mirror

 Among Hindus in Kerala, there is great reverence attributed to Ashta Mangalyam (a platter of eight auspicious objects). This platter is part of the bride's trousseau in some communities. On the day of Vishu (traditional harvest festival in April), people set eyes on this platter first before beginning a prosperous new agrarian year. While the actual symbolic objects differ by occasion, community and location, a regular on the list is a Vaal Kannadi (hand mirror) which is meant to bestow abundance and wealth on the beholder. And the most sought after mirror is a distortion-free Aranmula one.

The uniqueness of the Aranmula Kannadi (mirror) is that the reflective surface is not mercury-backed glass but metal! When you place a fingertip on a normal mirror, you see a gap between the front edge of the glass and the image on the reflective backing layer. However, in the Aranmula Mirror, this gap does not exist. In that sense, it is a true reflection.

The secret of achieving true reflective quality on metal is known only to a set of families in Aranmula, Kerala and this knowledge was inherited as legacy from their bronze-caster forefathers who moved here in the 18^th century from Sankarankoil in present-day Tamizh Nadu.

Legend has it that they were required to create a resplendent crown for the local deity using bell metal. But they failed to create an alloy that would, after polishing, befit the grandeur. A widow from the community dreamt about the exact composition that would make the metal as reflective as a mirror. When it proved true, the community also began to create mirrors. The other story goes that when the bronze casters could not achieve the right alloy ratio, their wives threw in their tin jewellery into the mix out of sheer desperation. This is said to have changed the nature of the existing alloy to an unleaded copper-tin alloy, now used to create the Aranmula Mirror.

Each mirror is painstakingly made by hand and, depending on the size, could take about six months to make. The clay used for casting, the higher concentration of tin in the copper-tin alloy and the duration of heating the alloy are but some aspects in a process where purification of the metal is of great importance to get a good shine. Some secret herbs are rumoured to be added to the alloy. Even polishing the metal is said to be an elaborate process, done for a few hours a day for about 3 days.

A round mirror of 5” diameter set in an ornate brass frame costs about Rs. 8000. A major component of the cost is the labour. But the other factor is the considerable wastage in the manufacturing process as the metal plates are almost glass-like in their fragility. Traditionally, the demand for the product grew when it was included in the Ashta Mangalyam. However, owing to the price, it is now considered a precious and unique artefact.

Aranmula Mirros have now been granted GI (Geographical Indication) status and they are currently manufactured by the Parthsaradhy Handicraft Centre in Aranmula. While they have an online store (www.aranmulakannadi.com), you could simply walk into one of the Kairali Emporia (outlets of the Handicrafts Development Corporation of Kerala Ltd ) and see a sample there before placing your order.

(An edited version appeared in Culturama's February 2011 Issue)

24 BY CITY - Kochi

A vital port in the days of the spice trade, Kochi (formerly Cochin) has the distinction of being an eclectic patchwork of cultural influences – Arab, Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and British.

SEE

Ernakulam (the mainland) and Kochi (the port) are twin cities and between them lie islands like Wellington and Bolgatty all linked by bridges and ferries.

The main historical sights to be seen in a day are in the Mattancherry area of Fort Kochi.

St. Francis Church

Behind the simple facade and walls of the St. Francis Church lies the site of Vasco Da Gama's grave long after his remains have been shipped back to Portugal. Built in the 1500s, this church is one of the oldest in India.

Paradesi Synagogue & Cemetery

The synagogue and cemetery on Jew Street stand testimony to a once-sizeable community of Jews whose numbers are now dwindling. The synagogue, built in 1568, is the oldest in India. The adjoining clock tower was added much later, in 1760. Inside the Synagogue do notice the glass chandeliers above you and the Chinese hand-painted tiles underfoot.

Dutch Palace or Mattancherry Palace

Now a museum, this modest palace was built by the Portuguese for Raja Veera Kerala Varma in 1555 and renovated by the Dutch in 1663. It contains exquisite murals and a coronation hall.

Chinese Fishing Nets

Watch the local fishermen harvest their catch with Chinese fishing nets that have now become the visual symbol of Kochi. The best time to visit for a photo-op is at dusk – head to the beach at Fort Kochi or take a ferry to Vyapeen or Kumbalangi Islands. In most places, you could buy fresh catch, get a nearby eatery to cook it for you on the spot and have it served with local toddy.

NOTE: Kerala Tourism has a walking guide on its website for Fort Kochi. http://www.keralatourism.org/destination/destination.php?id=2132066030

ENTERTAINMENT

Fort Kochi Jetty is the place to head to for boat rides and dolphin sighting in the afternoons. If time permits, opt for a leisurely ferry ride through the backwaters.

Soothe stressed nerves with a traditional Ayurvedic therapeutic massage. Most of the higher range hotels have facilities or can arrange for them.

A Kathakali dance performance is much like the Japanese Kabuki. Do watch the make-up application a couple of hours before the show. Call ahead for reservations to watch Kathakali as well as Theyyam, Kalaripayttu (traditional martial arts) demonstrations here:

• Greenix Village at Fort Kochi has performances as well as a cultural museum  http://www.greenix.in/
• Cochin Cultural Centre has theatres both at Ernakulam as well as Fort Kochi  http://www.cochinculturalcentre.com/

• Kerala Kathakali Centre at Fort Kochi - http://www.kathakalicentre.com/location.htm

EAT

Sadya is the quintessential Kerala festive meal served on a banana leaf. There are specialist Sadya restaurants, but no restaurant meal matches the simple pleasure of a home-cooked feast during Onam (a festival in September).

Fish is a must-try, especially the Fish Fry with local spices and the Karimeen Pollichathu (Pearl Spot steamed in banana leaf). The best restaurants to taste local fare in Kochi and Ernakulam are Seagull (near the beach), Grand (M.G. Road) and Shala. Kashi is a well-known cafe-cum-art gallery on Burgher Street that's popular among tourists. For a more exclusive dining experience, head to the Bolgatty Palace (Bolgatty Island), the Taj Malabar (Wellington Island) or the Brunton Boatyard (Fort Kochi).

SHOP

Nestled alongside the ubiquitous Kashmiri curio shops, Jew Street is a hub of spices and antique shops. Pick up pepper, cinnamon, clove and cardamom here. But do authenticate antiques before buying them.

Culture Shoppe is the official agency of the Department of Tourism, Government of Kerala to promote Kerala souvenirs. http://www.cultureshoppe.com They have an office at Kochi, but you can simply order online for free delivery across India.

Visit Kairali, the state-run handicraft outlets at Mattancherry (Fort Kochi) and M.G. Road (Ernakulam) for typical Kerala items like brass lamps, wood carvings, miniature caparisoned elephants, decorative Kathakali masks and numerous products made from coconut shell and banana fibre.

(An edited version appeared in Culturama's February 2011 Issue)